| 刘慧民1，王万绪1，杨跃飞2，台秀梅1.水黄皮籽油的性能及其在化妆品中的应用[J].中国油脂,2019,44(10):60~65.[LIU Huimin1, WANG Wanxu1, YANG Yuefei2, TAI Xiumei1.Properties of karanja seed oil and its application in cosmetics[J].China Oils and Fats,2019,44(10):60~65.] |
| 水黄皮籽油的性能及其在化妆品中的应用 |
| Properties of karanja seed oil and its application in cosmetics |
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| DOI： |
| 中文关键词: 水黄皮籽油 理化性质 防晒性能 保湿性能 抗氧化性 |
| 英文关键词:karanja seed oil physicochemical property anti-UV property moisturizing property antioxidation |
| 基金项目:国家重点研发计划经费资助项目（2017YFB0308704）；伽蓝研究基金资助项目（Jala 2016） |
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| 中文摘要: |
| 研究了水黄皮籽油的理化性质与抗氧化性；测试了含水黄皮籽油护肤品的防晒性能、理化性质；通过体外模型模拟测试水黄皮籽油对皮肤的保湿性能。结果表明：与2种化学防晒剂甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和聚硅氧烷-15相比，水黄皮籽油具有高铺展性和低渗透性；随着水黄皮籽油质量浓度的增大，DPPH自由基的清除率增大，水黄皮籽油质量浓度6 g/L时，DPPH自由基的清除率为22.10%；3%杜仲绿原酸、3%阿魏酸与水黄皮籽油的复配体系，随着水黄皮籽油在配方中质量分数的增加，防晒霜的防晒性能提升，水黄皮籽油质量分数为7.5%时，防晒霜的SPF（防晒化妆品防晒指数）为16.0±0.90，PFA0（防晒化妆品长波紫外线防护指数）为7.6±0.70；在相对湿度为34%和变色硅胶条件下，加入6.76%水黄皮籽油的保湿霜表现出一定的保湿性能，可减少皮肤表面水分的蒸发。 |
| 英文摘要: |
| The physicochemical properties and antioxidation of the karanja seed oil were studied. The anti-UV property and physicochemical properties of the skin care products containing karanja seed oil were tested. The moisturizing property of the karanja seed oil on the skin were tested by in vitro model simulation. The results showed that compared with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and polysiloxane-15, the karanja seed oil had high spreadability and low permeability. With the increase of the mass concentration of the karanja seed oil, DPPH free radical scavenging rate increased, and DPPH free radical scavenging rate of karanja seed oil at 6 g/L was 22.10%. In the compound system of 3% eucommia chlorogenic acid, 3% ferulic acid and karanja seed oil, with the mass fraction of karanja seed oil in the formula increasing, the sunscreen performance of sunscreen increased. The SPF (sun protection factor) and PFA0（protection factor of UVA） of sunscreen containing 7.5% karanja seed oil was 16.0±0.90 and 7.6±070, respectively. Under the condition of 34% of relative humidity and color changing silica, the cream containing 6.76% karanja seed oil showed certain moisturizing performance, and it could reduce the evaporation of moisture on the skin. |
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