| 赵元超1，董振鹏2，许虎君1.辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯的结构表征及保湿性能评价[J].中国油脂,2022,47(11):.[ZHAO Yuanchao1，DONG Zhenpeng2，XU Hujun1.Structural characterization and moisturizing performance of octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester[J].China Oils and Fats,2022,47(11):.] |
| 辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯的结构表征及保湿性能评价 |
| Structural characterization and moisturizing performance of octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester |
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| DOI： |
| 中文关键词: 辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯 皮肤水分含量 经皮水分散失 保湿 |
| 英文关键词:PS-203 MMV TEWL moisturization |
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| 中文摘要: |
| 为了开发具有保湿、修复功效的类神经酰胺产品，以月桂酰谷氨酸、辛基十二醇为原料，通过无溶剂法制备了辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯（PS-203），并对PS-203结构进行了表征。借助皮肤探头测试系统研究了PS-203在两种挥发性溶液体系中的保湿效果，并与神经酰胺2等保湿成分进行了对比。另外，构建离体猪皮模型，采用皮肤超声诊断法评价了PS-203对受损皮肤的修复效果。结果表明：通过结构表征，证明了PS-203被成功合成；质量分数为3%、4%、5%的PS-203溶液保湿效果最好，使用后3 h内皮肤水分含量（MMV）变化率可提高至8.9%，经皮水分散失（TEWL）降低率可达24.4%；PS-203能达到与神经酰胺2相近的保湿效果，且保湿效果明显优于角鲨烷、霍霍巴油、棕榈酸乙基己酯和辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯；PS-203可使离体受损猪皮角质层密度提高3百分点，皮肤厚度增加7 μm，效果与神经酰胺2相近。综上，PS-203在皮肤保湿及修复方面均具有优异的表现。 |
| 英文摘要: |
| In order to develop ceramide-like products with moisturizing and repairing performance, octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester (PS-203) was prepared by a solvent-free method with lauroyl glutamic acid and octyldodecanol as raw materials, and the structure of the product was characterized. The moisturizing performance of PS-203 in two volatile solution systems was detected by means of a skin probe test system, and compared with moisturizing ingredients such as ceramide 2. In addition, a porcine skin model in vitro was constructed, and the repairing effect of PS-203 on damaged skin was evaluated by skin ultrasound diagnosis. The results showed that structural characterization proved the successful synthesis of PS-203. PS-203 solutions with mass fractions of 3%, 4%, and 5% had the best moisturizing effect, and within 3 h after applying, the change rate of mean moisture content (MMV) could increase to 8.9%, and the transdermal water loss (TEWL) reduction rate could reach 24.4%. Compare with ceramide 2, PS-203 could achieve a similar moisturizing effect, and its moisturizing effect was significantly better than squalane, jojoba oil, and ethylhexyl palmitate and caprylic/capric triglyceride. PS-203 could increase the stratum corneum density by 3 percentage points and epidermal thickness by 7 μm in damaged porcine skin in vitro, which was similar to ceramide 2. In conclusion, PS-203 has excellent performance in both skin moisturization and repair. |
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