| 雷锦舸1，郑竟成1,2,3，陈哲3，罗质1,2，何东平1,2,3，雷芬芬1,2,3.无患子籽油卸妆油的性能研究[J].中国油脂,2023,48(6):.[LEI Jinge1，ZHENG Jingcheng1,2,3，CHEN Zhe3，LUO Zhi1,2，
HE Dongping1,2,3，LEI Fenfen1,2,3.Performance of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil make-up remover[J].China Oils and Fats,2023,48(6):.] |
| 无患子籽油卸妆油的性能研究 |
| Performance of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil make-up remover |
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| DOI： |
| 中文关键词: 卸妆油 无患子籽油 乳化剂 配方 评价 |
| 英文关键词:make-up remover oil Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil emulsifier formulation evaluation |
| 基金项目:中国科协青年人才托举工程项目（YESS20200380） |
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| 中文摘要: |
| 为探究无患子籽油在化妆品领域的应用，在对无患子籽油主要理化性质和脂肪酸组成进行检测基础上，对以其为原料制备的2种卸妆油WHZ-1(无患子籽油体积分数68%)和WHZ-2（无患子籽油体积分数28%）的自乳化性、稳定性、流动性、黏度、刺激性、卸妆效果及感官等进行评价。结果表明:无患子籽油酸值（KOH）为0.32 mg/g，过氧化值为0.45 mmol/kg，符合润肤油国家标准要求，主要脂肪酸油酸含量为53.52%，顺-11-二十碳烯酸含量为23.07%；WHZ-1的自乳化性优于WHZ-2，与商品卸妆油A、卸妆油B相当，WHZ-1、WHZ-2稳定性符合卸妆油国家标准要求，二者的黏度和流动性在商品卸妆油A和卸妆油B之间，人体皮肤斑贴实验测试结果显示二者均无红斑、水肿现象；WHZ-1的感官评分较WHZ-2的高，总体卸妆效果优于WHZ-2。无患子籽油卸妆油卸妆效果良好，刺激性低，有较好的应用前景。 |
| 英文摘要: |
| To investigate the application of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil in cosmetics, the self-emulsification, stability, fluidity, viscosity, irritation, make-up removing effect and sensory of two make-up remover oil WHZ-1（volume fraction of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil 68%） and WHZ-2（volume fraction of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil 28%） prepared from Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil were evaluated on the basis of detecting the main physicochemical properties and fatty acid composition of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil. The results showed that the acid value of Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil was 0.32 mgKOH/g and the peroxide value was 0.45 mmol/kg, which met the requirements of the national standard for skin care oil, and the contents of the main fatty acid oleic acid and cis-11-eicosanoic acid were 53.52% and 23.07%,respectively. The self-emulsification of WHZ-1 was better than that of WHZ-2, which was comparable to commercial make-up remover oil A and make-up remover oil B. The stability of WHZ-1 and WHZ-2 met the requirements of the national standard for make-up remover oil, and the viscosity and fluidity of both were between commercial make-up remover oil A and make-up remover oil B. The human skin patch test result showed that WHZ-1 and WHZ-2 had no redness or edema. The sensory score of WHZ-1 was higher than that of WHZ-2, and the overall make-up removing effect was better than WHZ-2.Sapindus mulorossi Gaertn oil make-up remover has good make-up removing effect, low irritation, and good application prospects. |
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