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| Structural characterization and moisturizing performance of octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester |
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| KeyWord:PS-203 MMV TEWL moisturization |
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| Abstract: |
| In order to develop ceramide-like products with moisturizing and repairing performance, octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester (PS-203) was prepared by a solvent-free method with lauroyl glutamic acid and octyldodecanol as raw materials, and the structure of the product was characterized. The moisturizing performance of PS-203 in two volatile solution systems was detected by means of a skin probe test system, and compared with moisturizing ingredients such as ceramide 2. In addition, a porcine skin model in vitro was constructed, and the repairing effect of PS-203 on damaged skin was evaluated by skin ultrasound diagnosis. The results showed that structural characterization proved the successful synthesis of PS-203. PS-203 solutions with mass fractions of 3%, 4%, and 5% had the best moisturizing effect, and within 3 h after applying, the change rate of mean moisture content (MMV) could increase to 8.9%, and the transdermal water loss (TEWL) reduction rate could reach 24.4%. Compare with ceramide 2, PS-203 could achieve a similar moisturizing effect, and its moisturizing effect was significantly better than squalane, jojoba oil, and ethylhexyl palmitate and caprylic/capric triglyceride. PS-203 could increase the stratum corneum density by 3 percentage points and epidermal thickness by 7 μm in damaged porcine skin in vitro, which was similar to ceramide 2. In conclusion, PS-203 has excellent performance in both skin moisturization and repair. |
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