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| Photoprotection effect of four high linoleic acid oils |
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| DOI： |
| KeyWord:high linoleic acid oil photoprotection safety sunscreen potentiation antioxidant property |
| FundProject: |
| Author Name | Affiliation | | ZHANG Wanping1,2 ,CHANG Qingning1,2 ,ZHANG Qianjie1,2 ,ZHANG Dongmei1,2 , WANG Yaping3 ,JIANG Wen1,2 | 1.School of Perfume and Aroma Technology, Shanghai Institute of Technology, Shanghai 201418, China
2.Engineering Research Center of Perfume & Aroma and Cosmetics, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 201418, China
3.Shanghai Maikunte Medical Technology Company, Shanghai 201415, China |
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| Abstract: |
| In order to solve the current problems of irritation, solubility and light stability when the ultraviolet（UV） absorber and active ingredients were compounded in the system, the safety, UV absorption, sunscreen synergism and antioxidation properties of four high linoleic acid oils (rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil) were investigated through chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane test, sunscreen potentiation and free radical scavenging test. The results showed that rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil were highly safe and could be used in photoprotection special purpose cosmetics. The four oils had good solubility with long wave UV absorber diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (APLUS), medium wave UV absorber methoxyethyl hexyl cinnamate (OMC) and broad-spectrum UV absorber aucylin, and there was no stability problem after being stored at 25℃ for 28 d. When sesame oil was mixed with APLUS, the increase rate of long wave UV absorption was the highest, which could increased by 17.81%. When compounded with OMC, rice bran oil as solvent had the highest increase rate of medium wave UV absorption, which was 28.83%. When aucylin was compounded with safflower seed oil, the increase rate of absorption of full band UV radiation reached the maximum, which was 45.77%.The four high linoleic acid oils could effectively slow down the rate of OMC photodegradation, and the compound system of sesame oil and OMC had the lowest irradiation loss rate of 2.88% after 9 h of light irradiation.The four high linoleic acid oils had certain DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging ability, among which rice bran oil had the highest DPPH radical scavenging rate with EC50 value of 0.036 49 g/mL, and wheat germ oil had the highest hydroxyl radical scavenging rate with EC50 value of 0.053 36 g/mL. Therefore, rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil not only can be used as a base material in cosmetics, but also can be used in products to further improve their photoprotection properties due to their safety, sunscreen potentiation and antioxidant properties. |
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