Preparation and performance of Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion
  
DOI:
KeyWord:Sapindus mulorossi oil  skin care emulsion  stability  safety  moisturizing property  antioxidant activity  inhibitory rate of tyrosinase activity  UV absorption effect
FundProject:中国科协青年人才托举工程项目(YESS20200380)
Author NameAffiliation
LEI Jinge1,ZHENG Jingcheng1,2,3,ZHOU Li3,LUO Zhi1,2, HE Dongping1,2,3,LEI Fenfen1,2,3 (1.College of Food Science and Engineering, Wuhan Polytechnic University, Wuhan 430023, China
2.Key Laboratory for Deep Processing of Major Grain and Oil of Ministry of Education
, Wuhan Polytechnic University, Wuhan 430023, China 3.Key Laboratory of Edible Oil Quality and Safety for State Market Regulation, Wuhan 430023, China) 
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Abstract:
      In order to promote the application research of Sapindus mulorossi oil in cosmetics, nanoemulsion was prepared with Sapindus mulorossi oil as raw material, and with particle size and Zeta potential as indicators, the preparation process conditions of nanoemulsion were optimized by single factor experiment. Then, the Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion was prepared based on the single factor experiment. The stability, safety, antioxidant activity, moisturizing properties, tyrosinase inhibitory activity and UV absorption effect of the skin care emulsion were evaluated with olive oil skin care emulsion and commercial skin care emulsion as control. The results showed that the optimal conditions for preparing nanoemulsion of Sapindus mulorossi oil were obtained as follows: dosage of compound emulsifier (volume ratio of Tween-60 to Span A83 3∶ 1)8%, dosage of co-emulsifier 6%, dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 2% or 4%, emulsification temperature 70 ℃ and shear rate 12 000 r/min. The stability and safety of three skin care emulsions RY-1( dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 2%)、RY-2(dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 4%) and RY-3(dosage of olive oil 2%) were good. The EC50 of the three emulsions for scavenging DPPH· was 61.5, 55.7 μg/mL and 581 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging ABTS+ ·was 58.3,50.1 μg/mL and 53.5 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging ·OH was 59.7, 30.2 μg/mL and 59.9 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging O2- ·was 59.6, 41.8 μg/mL and 57.3 μg/mL,the EC50 for inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase was 147.5, 118.6 μg/mL and 140.2 μg/mL, respectively. At RH 43% and 81%, the order of moisturization rate of the 4 skin care emulsions both were RY-2 > commercial skin care emulsion > RY-3 > RY-1. The Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion had certain UV absorption capacity. In conclusion, the formula of RY-2 is better than RY-1 and RY-3. The Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion is safe, non-irritating, and has certain antioxidant activity, which has good application prospects.
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